I’ve been lucky to visit various regions in Italy, but when it comes to food none compare to Emilia-Romagna. If you’re wanting to experience gourmet dishes handcrafted with fresh ingredients and what is considered the best in Italy, throw on a pair of elastic waist pants (trust me they will come in handy) and head to Italy’s most famous food region.
Emilia-Romagna is located about an hour and 30 minutes north of Florence and is known for its medieval cities and the production of Italy’s most popular foods. In the city of Parma you will find Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and prosciutto factories, and in Modena, balsamic vinegar, giving this region the nickname “the stomach of Italy”. If you’re interested in Balsamic Vinegar tasting in a beautiful family-run factory in Modena, check out this post.
Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna is a vibrant city with an 11th-century university (the oldest in Europe), arched porticos, and medieval piazzas. Nicknamed “the fat city”, Bologna is known as the gastronomic capital and the birthplace of bolognese sauce. I recommend trying the signature dish of tagliatelle bolognese as well as the tortellini, I promise it will be the best you’ve ever experienced.
how long to visit
I didn’t expect much from Bologna and simply chose it as a base for day trips, however, after a few short hours I realized four days wouldn’t be nearly enough time to explore this gem of a city and it’s surrounding area. I have visited over 25 cities in Italy, and Bologna has a completely different vibe that I connected with immediately. Unlike bigger cities that are packed with tourists, Bologna is filled with locals. In the afternoons at the Basilica of San Francesco, children chase one another with gelato in hand as art students set up their stools and canvas.
In the evening’s friends socialize in small groups within the church courtyard while others dine on restaurant patios along the cobblestone streets. What I found most interesting was that bar patrons were welcome to socialize in the street while servers checked on them occasionally for drink orders. It was in those moments of watching locals come together, that I promised myself I would return and I did later that year for Christmas which was magical.
Bologna is a great city to book accommodations when visiting Emilia-Romagna since it’s neighboring cities of Parma, Ravenna, Ferrara and Modena are easy to get to via metro, making it a great base for day trips which you can read more about in this post. I suggest staying in Bologna at least a week to give yourself enough time to explore the region.
where to eat
While exploring the city center near the Two Towers, be sure to pop into a Salumeria. This is where you will find the freshest meats, cheeses, tortellini, and olives (oh, the Italian olives Mmm..) If you’re looking for something on the go, most shops have the option to create a sandwich with your meat and cheese of choice.
Trattoria Baraldi
site | reviews
This was a recommendation by Nicoletta a local who owns a lovely floral shop (Stagni in Fiore) in the city center. She said it is one of her favorite restaurants and after my first visit, it also became mine. I was hoping to try other restaurants in the area but there were so many delicious options on the menu that I couldn’t resist returning night after night. Update: I returned to Bologna a few months later for the Christmas Holidays and to visit Nicoletta who I stayed in touch with after my previous trip. She closed her floral shop early and took me to another of her favorite restaurants. Bologna during the Holidays is beautiful and we had the most wonderful evening together but as far as restaurants, Trattoria Baraldi, which I of course visited again, is still at the top of my list.
Bologna’s most traditional dish is tortellini in brodo (tortellini in broth) and is a mix between a soup and a pasta dish. Personally, I found it a bit underwhelming but I definitely recommend ordering the Tagliatelle al ragu as well as the tortelloni di ricotta al burro e oro o burro e salvia (ricotta tortelloni with a butter sage sauce). For dessert order a slice of la torta tenerina (flourless chocolate cake) along with a glass of white wine.
things to see
- Piazza Maggiore: Bologna’s main square lined with Medieval & Renaissance buildings, cafes & street musicians.
- San Petronio Basilica: This Gothic Basilica is the city’s main church, it is the tenth-largest church in the world by volume and houses 22 art-filled side chapels.
- Two Towers: These towers are the most recognizable symbols of Bologna, strategically placed at the entry point in the city of the ancient Via Emilia.
- Stagni in Fiore: During my time in Bologna, I had the privilege of meeting and becoming quite close with Nicoletta, the owner of this adorable floral shop. She is truly the sweetest woman whose passion is reflected in every floral arrangement she creates. If you’re looking for a special gift, her shop sells beautiful bouquets, candles, perfume, and jewelry and is conveniently located in the city center.
where to stay
What’s great about Bologna is that it’s not a typical “tourist destination” so you get a lot more for your money especially when it comes to accommodations. I found an Airbnb directly across from the Basilica of San Francesco which offered stunning views of Bologna’s rooftops from its private terrace as well as incredible views of the Basilica from the buildings 180 degrees, fully windowed, top floor.
Below are accommodations that offer great views and are located right in the city center.
Bologna Altana Deluxe
Room Type: Airbnb – Private Apartment
Rooms: 1 bedroom bed+sofa bed1 bath
Price: $77+/ night
Piazza Maggiore Suite, pregio e comodità
Room Type: Airbnb – Private Apartment
Rooms: 1 bedroom bed+sofa bed1 bath
Price: $81+/ night
Amazing View | Attic in Bologna’s Heart | 4 Star
Room Type: Airbnb – Private Apartment
Rooms: bed+sofa bed1 bath
Price: $122+/ night
